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MILAN, September 22, 2008

By Nicole Phelps

It was anchors away at D&G, where messieurs Dolce and Gabbana took a dip in the azure waters of the French Riviera. Make that a long soak. They never do anything halfway, and this collection was no exception, from the first retro navy-striped maillot with a red anchor on the chest to the parade of dresses in pleated gold lamé and chiffon printed with nautical flags and sailor knots. Over the top? Well, yes, but there was plenty in between that will play on dry land, including tailored blazers, high-waisted sailor pants, a "gold-plated reptile" trenchcoat, and thick, metallic-shot hand-woven knits, the best of which was a crewneck sweater worn with balloon shorts.

And because the Côte d'Azur was a stomping ground for Coco Chanel, who kept an iris-strewn holiday villa in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, the Chanel-isms abounded: little red-and-white-checked and sequined bouclé suits, but with shorts not skirts; a long, striped cardigan cum beach cover-up; twenties-feeling high-hemmed shifts; and a super-wide-brimmed sun hat straight out of a photograph of Mademoiselle herself. Fishnets, flag-printed wedge sandals, patent bags, and knit swim caps numbered among the other accessories. It was a kick from beginning to end, which is, after all, what Saint-Tropez fun in the sun is all about.